The Tibetan grasslands

One year and 15000km of cycling, but the adventure continues. Far from being the end of our trip, this part of China turned out to be one of the most interesting places. Beautiful scenery and fascinating culture. On our route there were only a few small towns separated by long stretches of quiet roads crossing beautiful grasslands dotted with nomad tents and heards of yak.

We arrive into Huoyiuue, a small town that looked and felt like something out of a wild-west movie, but with motorbikes instead of horses outside the shops and bars.

We are used to being the centre of attention when we arrive in a village. Many of the places that we have been to see very few tourists, especially not ones on bicycles. We were quite astounded by the reaction as we entered Huoyiuue, however. Not only did most of the village come out to have a look at us and our bikes, but they also followed us into a restraunt to stare as we ate our food. The owner eventually chased them out but a small crowd remained and the rest pressed their faces up against the windows to watch us eat!


You can only imagine the scene when we realised that Nico had a flat tyre and would have to repair it in the street before we could set off again. Never have we had so many willing assistants!

We left town with a following of bikers, but after about 5km we were on our own again in the quiet hills. We climbed to a pass on which a man was performing a ritual as part of a sky burial. In silence we watched this very moving ceremony for some time. The atmosphere in this remote, wind-swept place was very special. We have been told that although sky burials are still performed in these areas, the number of birds has decreased so much in recent years that the bodies have to be partially cremated first. The smoke and the throwing of paper into the air (replacing the small pieces of the body that used to be thrown) helps to attract the birds.

Our reception in Zekog was similar to the one we had received in Huoyiuue. People are fascinated by our arrival and usually an English speaker is found who can ask us why we are travelling by bicycle!

More perfect camping.

A fabulous view of storm clouds building in the mountains behind the mighty Yellow river (not-so mighty this far up stream though).

Cycle touring has to be the best way to travel if you want to get to remote areas and meet people... the owner of this bike didn't seem to agree when Ed offered to swap vehicles though!

Of course we would never really have given up our trusty steeds, would we??!!